A two hour ferry ride from Uig (Isle of Skye) to Tarbert (Isle of Harris) took us to the Outer Hebrides, where we explored Lewis and Harris, two islands connected to each other. The ferry arrived in Tarbert, Harris and we drove north for about 40 minutes to our Airbnb in Stornoway, Lewis.

We reserved a cute apartment for two nights, just a few blocks from downtown. The town is quaint with cute shops and restaurants surrounding the small harbor. We went to Lewis Castle across the harbor to wander the inside, but it was closed for a wedding. The castle grounds are really beautiful though and worth a stroll. It’s set in a large forest with paths and great views of Stornoway and the sea. The connected museum captivated us with artifacts, including the famous Lewis Chessmen pieces. Well worth a visit to learn about the history of the area and the current way of life for locals. 

I’ve been here before and hands down two of my favorite places to explore are the Callanish Standing Stones and Blackhouses, both on isle of Lewis. The stones are about 5000 years old, predating Stonehenge and form a cruciform pattern. A small chambered tomb lies in the middle. Peat had covered the stone entirely until the peat was cleared in 1857. It’s possible there is so much more to be discovered beneath the peat that covers the isles. 

For any fans of the show Outlander, they created a fictional stone circle modeled after these ones. In case you’re wondering, you wont get transported in time if you touch them. 😉

We arrived early in the morning and only shared the stones with a handful of people. Unlike Stonehenge, you can walk around and touch them. There are two other stone circles nearby that aren’t quite as impressive, but still worth a stop. 

There is a museum here, but it was closed during our visit. Admission is free.

The Arnol Blackhouse is a fully furnished traditional thatched roof house with a barn, byre and stackyard attached. The house was built in 1880 and inhabited by a Hebridian crafting family until 1966. It’s been preserved with simple artifacts and a man volunteering there shares his love for the place and history. The house is warmed by burning peat in the hearth, which has a strong, but pleasant smell. The crofthouse nearby is occupied by an older man, probably in his 70’s, spinning wool to make Harris Tweed. He’s been doing it since he was 12. It was really interesting to watch him work. He made it look effortless. 

Weaving may only be done within the homes of the islanders in the Outer Hebrides and all tweed made in Harris must be produced by human power using pedals to drive the loom mechanism. You can pick up a beautiful scarf or many other items made from Harris tweed in one of the many shops in town.

We also had dinner at La Balena, an Italian restaurant located a few blocks from our Airbnb. Recommend to make a reservation. The restaurant was really hot, so I would wear layers so you won’t melt. The cocktails were delicious and refreshing. We ordered the beef bolognese, salad, lasagna, and linguine al olio. All incredibly tasty. 10/10! 

The next day we visited Luskentyre Beach, one of the world’s most beautiful beaches with pristine sand and turquoise water. This beach is soooo gorgeous!! Pictures don’t do it justice. Make your way down the sandy path to mountain views in the distance and a couple hairy cows off to the right. After we walked the beach and frolicked in the water, a magical moment unfolded. Matt proposed to Ricci!! YAY!!! Congratulations friends!! We were honored to be part of their special moment and can’t wait for the big day.

Heading south we arrived at St. Clements Church in Rodel, Harris and walked around the hauntingly beautiful grounds, checking out the centuries old headstones. Walking into the church, you feel like you stepped back in time. 

This church is considered the grandest medieval building in the Western Isles. It was built in the 15th or 16th century for the chiefs of the MacLeods of Harris. There are 8 tombs inside the church and they are incredible to see. The view of the sea from the church is unforgettable. 

Walking around the graves, I met a man admiring one and taking notes. He told me he was doing research on his family and we were at his great great grandfather’s grave. How cool is that?!

We headed back to the Airbnb to rest and enjoy some take out from Eleven, a hotel restaurant. The fish and chips were really tasty. They do a Sunday roast that is supposed to be pretty good, but we weren’t that hungry and it does require reservations. 

Travel Tips: If traveling to this area on a Sunday, know that most restaurants and stores are closed. We were lucky to find Eleven and a couple other options still open, but they close early so plan ahead. If you end up desperate, there is a gas station in town that has a little deli with several hot food options to choose from. 

Also, there aren’t many gas stations on these isles, so fill your tank in Stornoway or Tarbert.